In his black and white cocoon shielded from the outside world by thick curtains, with new warming walnut wood tables added this past year, Takao Takano carves out a path through the jungle of Lyonnais fine dining with the help of a katana sword. Simple, clean, precise. So it comes as something of a surprise that the only Japanese touch on his €100 tasting menu is his unchanging amuse-bouche, an egg flan in a beef, shiitake mushroom and raw mackerel consommé. The other evening, it was followed by slices of nearly-raw, line-caught bluefin tuna hidden under thinly sliced bacon, with a bone broth, smoked eggplant, broad beans, peas and grated bottarga; meaty monkfish tail painted with parslied butter, snuggled up against braised fennel, avocado, lemon marmalade and grilled pencil leeks; superb pigeon cooked breast-side down, with the thigh plated aside for nibbling on, plus a bone broth reduction, cherries and pan-fried chanterelles; a beautiful cheese pyramid from La Tête d’Or; before some small strawberries drizzled simply with a grape molasses vinegar, and a few white chocolate rochers with a hidden yuan (yuzu) ice cream center, plus some rhubarb beignets for dessert. // A.S.
FEELING THIRSTY? A Sancerre from the Domaine Vacheron or Faustine, a Corsican red from the Domaine Comte Abbatucci (€12 a glass) and some very good natural bottles: Grand Blanc, a Provence white from Henri Milan (€60 a bottle), Emilien 2015, a Bordeaux red from the Château Le Puy (€70) or even Antide, a Côtes-du-Jura white from Jean-François Ganevat (€150).
PRICE: Menus €50 (lunch), €100 and €140.