Sausalito was a center for bootlegging under prohibition in San Francisco, and it’s since become a hotbed for bobos. But here, it’s an inhibition-free zone: bottles are proudly displayed along the exposed stone walls and wine flows freely on the terrace. Running things, you’ll find four hip boys (twins Basile and Martin Beaupère, Pierre Rammaert, Antoine Couturier – it’s a lot of people, we have to admit!) and, in the kitchen, David John Kelly (ex-6 Paul Bert). The night we were there, he transformed beetroot quarters into a divine appetizer, with a little ricotta and watercress. What came next? Thin slices of duck breast delicately smoked over hay and served with nectarines, hazelnuts and mustard shoots; gigantic, crispy yet tender ribs cooked for six hours and served with an herb and chili salad; plump lamb croquettes with an incredible chimichurri sauce; before a silky chocolate-hazelnut mousse for the sweet finale. // M.S.
FEELING THIRSTY? There are some good southern classics: a Côtes-du-Rhône red from the Domaine du Petit Oratoire (€5 a glass), a Côtes-Catalanes white from Guilhem Soulignac (€32 a bottle) or a Pic-Saint-Loup red from Le Mas Foulaquier (€43).
PRICE: Set menus €18-21 (lunch), à la carte €35-40.