Le Fooding Guide’s 2012 Best comptoir
We were delighted for another chance to play the guessing game at Pierre Sang’s naughtiest address, seated comfortably around the lone and lonnnnnng wooden table-bar with views of the stainless-steel kitchen. The concept? Blind menus – so you’ll only find out what you’ve just eaten once you’ve finished your plate! So what was on our three-course €25 lunchtime menu? We nearly identified the hake, which was working in tandem with a broccoli purée, crisp corn, peas in wasabi, apple and arugula; tender pork chops camouflaged in a cream of carrots, roasted red cabbage, pickled red onion and the chef’s signature ssamjang sauce (we couldn’t figure out that last detail!); before a delicious apple and cider dessert, prepared as a baba au rhum, a sorbet and a jelly, underneath a cloud of cardamom-spiced whipped cream. Outstanding! // J.-N.F.
FEELING THIRSTY? Natural wine: a Pays-d’Oc red from Le Clos des Centenaires (€7 a glass); a Côtes-de-Nuits-Villages from Dominique Laurent (€55 a bottle); Amateus Bobi, a Saumur-Champigny from Sébastien Bobinet (€45); and for the rest, you’ll have to guess!
PRICE: Menus €20-35 (lunch) and €39 (dinner).