restaurant

Mokoloco

Mokoloco (Paris)

© Agathe Hernandez

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Just a stone’s throw from their wonderful café Mokonuts, Moko Hirayama and Omar Koreitem have put this old laundromat through the spin cycle, pulling out a dreamy sandwich shop with a fresh modern feel, complete with light wooden countertops, stone walls and a big open kitchen. Our lunch went down easy the day we went: extremely tender katsu beef meatballs with a Japanese breading, colorful green turnip pickles and chicory from Castelfranco, all wedged between two slices of homemade brioche painted with a creamy anchovy mayonnaise. Before this insane flavor combo, the quartet directed by Franco-American chef Blaise Henze (ex-Au Passage) served us a thick split pea soup with pork shank and red cabbage, then one of Moko’s famous chocolate and oatmeal cookies. Some other sandwiches that we devoured (visually) that particular day: a grilled oyster mushroom / melted tomme / pesto / sweet garlic combo, and a plancha-grilled octopus / tahini / kale / preserved lemon number in between two pieces of sliced bread. More good news to come: soon, it should be evolving into an izakaya… We’ll keep you updated! // Aïtor Alfonso

FEELING THIRSTY? There are sophisticated soft drinks (red ginger lemonade or iced rooibos, €3.50) and Japanese Kagua yuzu beer (€5 for 330 ml). Filtered coffee on its way.

PRICE: Sandwiches €11-13, sides €4-6, desserts from €1.50 to €4.

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