Massale (Paris)

© Massale

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To win the good graces of owners Arthur Chiapello and Thomas Chapelle (ex-Zébulon and Pirouette), simply ask them what “massale” means… This method, which consists of selecting the best seeds from one harvest to the next, was the inspiration for their bistro with a radical approach to cooking, centered around the quality of the ingredients. The other night, we all had the pleasure of watching chef Olivier Caillon (ex-Pantruche and Pirouette) from the cozy dining room (atmospheric neon lights, orange chairs, cushioned benches), as he performed his duties. The result, served à la carte: a cheeky pork terrine with pickles; crispy calf’s head with a watercress coulis; rich cream of corn with sherry and feta; delicious suckling pig with leeks and walnuts; and plump homemade gnocchi with zucchini, pecorino and mint; and an exquisite duck breast with turnips, mirabelle plums and almonds. For dessert: baba au rhum with apricot and mascarpone or poached peaches with tarragon and meringue. // T.V.X.

FEELING THIRSTY? Elegant bottles get brought up from the wine cellar: an Alsatian Riesling from the Geschickts (€9 a glass), a Côtes-Catalanes red from the Domaine Riberach (€25 a bottle) or a Touraine-Ambroise red from La Grange Tiphaine (€50).

PRICE: Set menus €18 (lunch), à la carte €45-54.

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