Margo (Paris)

© Cocoro Nakamura

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After Keita Kitamura, now it’s time for Yurika Kitano (ex-Clamato and Passage 53) to take the reins at this Jumanji-esque space with rusted shutters, climbing plants and mosaic tile floors. The night we went, in the almost mystical shadowy ambiance, the Japanese chef whipped up some meticulous dishes: silky scallop carpaccio with mandolined turnips and bergamot zest; a gigantic skate wing with Brussels sprouts, intensified by an incredible squid ink sauce; a joyful wild boar stew with a red wine jus and celeriac purée, perfectly paired with the cuvée GT from Partida Creus (€42 a bottle); before a chocolate cake surrounded by crème anglaise for the simple but tasty finale. // G.LeP.

FEELING THIRSTY? The house keeps things natural: a glass of a highly drinkable P’tit Blanc from Le Clos du Tue-Boeuf (€6), a subtle Cabernet franc, Les Terres Rouges, from Sanzay (€60 a bottle), or a full-bodied Tempranillo cuvée Karm from Mylène Bru (€48)…
PRICES: À la carte €37-53.

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