Mamasan (Lyon)

© Adrien Simon

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This is the story of a (belle) famille, in which the son-in-law and his friend decided to put a cool new spin on his mother-in-law’s traditional Vietnamese cuisine – who herself is backed up in the kitchen by her daughter and a certain Joël, a former diver who became a spring roll scholar… In their colorful, exotic space (pearl curtains, neon red signs, ironic communist posters, a small Saigon Express corner), we dug into the following the night we went: a pair of crispy spring rolls; a pretty lap (thin strips of barely cooked beef dressed with galangal, mint, nuoc-mâm sauce and lime), served cold with rice; an exquisite bun bo xao with organic beef from the Bello butcher’s (also available in fish terrine or tofu versions); a smoking hot pho soup; followed by coconut balls stuffed on the spot with crunchy peanut butter, or chocolate ice cream from the Lyonnais sorbet maker Unico. // A.S.

FEELING THIRSTY? Singha beer on tap (€4.10) and a few wines that far from disappoint: a Chénas from Paul-Henri Thillardon (€5 a glass), a Crozes-Hermitage from Yann Chave (€36) or a Beaujolais white from Jean-Claude Lapalu (€29).

PRICE: Dishes €14.50, appetizers and desserts €3 (lunch), à la carte €24-38 (dinner).

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