restaurant

Mamagoto

Mamagoto (Paris)

© Matthieu Jauniau-Dallier

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Thomas Lousteau and Koji Tsuchiya (both of whom used to work at Chez Graff) are bringing their personal take on Japanese flavors to our taste buds at this haven of peace (blonde hardwood floors, dark wooden furniture, a tiled bar) located a distance from the hectic Gare de Nord and Gare de l’Est train stations. The other day at lunch, the stunning lunch menu from the Tokyoite chef (who hails from Nagoya and trained at Astrance) featured: an extremely fresh cucumber salad with sake-lacquered mackerel and homemade taramasalata; umami notes from a sirloin steak with miso, roasted eggplant and figs; before a comforting matcha panna cotta. For anyone in a rush, there’s a metro-boulot-bento option served in a steamed bamboo basket, with excellent karaage ginger chicken, a tamagoyaki omelet and greens over a bed of rice, plus a delicious slice of lime cheesecake. // F.P.

FEELING THIRSTY? Antoine de La Tour (ex-Hôtel Bachaumont and Chéri Bibi) has united all the big names of the natural wine movement: a striking Saumur-Champigny from Bobinet (€7 a glass), a gourmet Loire Sauvignon from Puzelat (€27 a bottle), a marvelous Brouilly from Foillard (€46)…

PRICE: Menu €21-25, bento-dessert-coffee set menu €16 (lunch), bento to go €13.50 (dinner), à la carte €36-52.

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