Libertino (Paris)

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The crazy Big Mamma adventure continues! After getting the Right Bank in the palm of their hand (Ober Mamma and Mamma Primi trattorias, Popolare pizzeria…) and opening up a gigantic food court in the 13th arrondissement (La Felicità), Tigrane Seydoux and Victor Lugger are taking eatertainment even further with Libertino. It’s a true spectacle that’s a cross between insanity and baroque style, where the chefs sing, the servers swarm around and the plates dance between the different rooms, with lounges and tables everywhere, amongst all kinds of kitsch details. Served à la carte, the day we went for lunch, it was the same Italian litany as always! For us: a crispy pizzetta (a little too oily), made with burrata, bottarga and celery; impeccable maltagliati with pesto, ricotta and toasted almonds; a gigantic pizza, more Roman than Neapolitan, topped with fior di latte, mortadella, baby spinach and parmigiano; before a comforting floating island with caramelized popcorn, and a delightful Tigramisu. Another option is the XL dishes to share, like the cacio e pepe taglioni served in a wheel of cheese, or the lamb shoulder slow-cooked for 16 hours – not always available at the third seating… Also worth noting: it’s (finally!) possible to reserve at both lunch and dinner. // F.P.

FEELING THIRSTY? A lovely fish-shaped water jug (€0), fine Piedmontese sparkling wine from Coppo (€7 a glass), an Apulian red from Polvanera (€32 a bottle), a Campania white from Porconero (€38)…

PRICE: Appetizers €7-13, mains €11-30, desserts €5-8.

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