Le Guide Fooding’s Best cave à manger of 2005
At this former haberdashery turned self-proclaimed “bistroy” (multicolored mosaic tile floors, grandmotherly sideboards, shelves filled with canned goods and bottles of wine…), Les Papilles has been serving countless elixirs since 2003. Inside you’ll find the owner, Bertrand Bluy, delighting the crowds with his comforting dishes, stewed up with love by chef Claude Ulric. On the menu the day we went for lunch: a delicious cauliflower velouté with bacon, served in a soup tureen with croutons and fried parsley; pork filet mignon in a pool of sauce à l’orange (a little thick) and some damn good polenta; before a comforting pear-caramel panna cotta. // E.diB.
FEELING THIRSTY? Bottles everywhere, scams nowhere: Cahors Maison Neuve (€8.50 a glass), Chablis Domaine Christophe et Fils (€38), Madiran Château Montus 2000 (€93)…
PRICE: Menus €28-35 (weekday lunch), mains €22-28, cheese and desserts €8-10.