A black tiled façade, crimson benches, wooden chairs, vintage light fixtures… The new Rubis has arrived, sparkling bright from the ashes after a fire in the building next door. With Fred Vilgicquel (already seen at L’Entrée des Artistes and Faggio Salumeria) in the kitchen, Marie-Line Carmarans’ bistro sure serves up a good time. The day we went for lunch, the €23 menu featured: mussels dressed in a steamy pesto with semi-confit cherry tomatoes; flavorful blanquette de veau with baby fennel, celery, mushrooms and carrots, plus pickled mustard seeds; before an extraordinary tiramisu, emphasis on the “extra.” At night, it’s all about tapas served à la carte: veal tongue with tonnato sauce; cuttlefish in a crab broth with chickpeas and fennel; or monkfish with guanciale, haricots verts and squash purée. // J.G.
FEELING THIRSTY? There’s a brilliant collection of ruby wines: a Cheverny from the Domaine de Hervé Villemade (€6 a glass), an Aveyron Maximus from Nicolas Carmarans (€45 a bottle), a Saumur-Champigny from the Domaine Bobinet (€38), or a Melon from the Domaine de la Cadette (€7 a glass) and an Arbois from the Domaine de la Tournelle (€42) for white wine, etc.
PRICE: Menus €18-23 (lunch), à la carte €30-48 (dinner).
