Laïa (Paris)

© Laïa

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“Getting out of Paris in Paris”. That’s the motto of Pierre Doublet and Quentin Garreau de Labarre (the former director of Le George in Paris), who cultivate this secret garden at the back of a city courtyard. What is there to know about their little hideaway? It’s a former distillery turned chic chiringuito, thanks to a Latin-inspired makeover with floral light fixtures, tomette tile floors, azulejos on the walls and a landscaped terrace. Chill on the latter with some trans-Mediterranean plates made by chef Marco Bernardo, who also happens to be a former Le George alumnus. Featured on the menu the other day at lunch: a tasty bouillabaisse (John Dory, scorpionfish, red mullet and gurnard) in a good red-hued broth covered in lace-like bread crisps; an opulent all-green Shrek-like risotto with lots of bite to it, served with zucchini balls and flash-seared red mullet filets; before a peach-amaretto cheesecake that got the job done. Otherwise, the menu (written out in Sabir) also shows off its raw side (tuna tartare, cucumber-lavender-sesame salad…) and gets the BBQ all fired up: grilled bass, octopus with lemon, lamb chops…. Another bonus: the duo have a stunning vegetable patch sandwiched in between the surrounding buildings! // Aïtor Alfonso

FEELING THIRSTY? A picture-perfect collection: a Valencian white wine (€4.50 a glass) or a Tuscan red (€39 a bottle), Corsican Pietra beers (€4-5 for a half-pint) and cocktails – including a Pampelle Spritz (€7).

PRICE: Set menus €16-22 (lunch), plates €7-23.

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What’s on the menu this year? A brand-new selection of 200 restaurants, bars and bedrooms across France, articles sprinkled throughout the magazine, the taste of the times distilled down to its purest form in our highly anticipated award’s list and, for the very first time, two new guides to the country’s best stand-out shops and spirited cellars!

2021 Le Fooding guide frontcover


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