A Basque red façade, chisteras, rugby jerseys… There’s no doubt about it, you’re at a Christian Etchebest restaurant (an ex-Christian Constant alumnus), one of his five Cantines du Troquet which serves a slice of the Pays Basque in central Paris! Manning the kitchen at this Daguerre iteration is Yohann Aubrée – and he does a fine job of it too. As the former sous-chef at the nearby La Cagouille, he sends out delightful cuisine! The night we went, we snatched up the following from the XXL blackboard menu hanging on the wall: a beautiful slice of boudin noir terrine served with a jar of cornichons and some small green chilies; a respectable bass fillet with crispy skin, hearty mashed potatoes, anchovy butter, sage and chives; before a creamy caramelized rice pudding to round out the meal. // D.C.
FEELING THIRSTY? Beautiful glasses: a Cerdon from Renardat-Fache (€6), Picpoul-de-Pinet from the Domaine de la Mirande (€24 a bottle) or a Pays-d’Oc red from the Domaine Magellan (€26).
PRICE: À la carte €32.50 to €49.50.
