restaurant

L'Épicerie du Verre Volé

L'Épicerie du Verre Volé (Paris)

© MJD

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After shaking up all of Paris with his wine shop (Le Verre Volé), Cyril Bordarier, the godfather of natural wines, made his fine foods shop (pixelated tiling, Mondrian-esque shelves and an Art Deco ceiling) the lunch spot of the century. Since 2012, this place has been curating baguette sandwiches with whatever strikes your fancy from the exhilarating array of fridges stuffed to the brim with good things: pecorino from Sicily, farm-fresh Saint-Nectaire cheese, bleu de Gex, pastrami from Michel Kalifa, Gascon coppa, Prince de Paris ham… The day we went for lunch, the crispy bread made by Fabrice Le Bourdat was split down the middle and filled with the simple trinity of ham, Comté and cornichons, and good lord, was it good! For those who can’t make up their mind, the menu of the day acts as a cheat sheet: porchetta, pesto, broccoli and hazelnuts, or taramasalata, cucumber, cilantro and olives. For dessert? Cakes of the day, or handsome Bordier rice puddings and yogurts – the cheeses also hail from Bordier. // M.J.-D.

FEELING THIRSTY? There’s no wine for a change! But there is Andalusian gazpacho (€2.50 a glass), Patrick Font fruit juices (€3) or Umà ice teas (€3).

PRICE: Sandwiches €5.90 to €7.90 (€10.90 to €12.90 with a drink + yogurt or cake).

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