restaurant

Kémia

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From inside his colorful Rubik’s Cube-style kitchen, the talented Richard Maizel (ex-Paul Bert and Le Grand Bain) is reinventing the North African art of hors-d’oeuvres, otherwise known as kémia. A fine demonstration the other night, when his Mediterranean plates arrived on our table: a divine taramasalata; addictive fried grey shrimp with chili and lemon and a classic aioli dipping sauce; an ethereal spelt wheat risotto with sweet potatoes, citrus and bottarga; flavorful falafel with an herbed cream and pumpkin seeds; a cheeky duck breast with confit thighs, polenta, marinated kohlrabi and golden corn; before a comforting orange semolina cake with roasted/poached Mirabelle plums. At lunch, make way for the market menu, which might feature things like kohlrabi with almond purée and puffed freekeh; Tunisian-style fried red mullet with sweet potato and harissa purée; scorpionfish and grilled purple sprouting broccoli; roasted guinea fowl, radicchio and salsify; honey cake and clementine sorbet. // C.Do.

FEELING THIRSTY? A selection of natural Southern wines: a red from Tenuta Macciarola in Puglia (€6.50 a glass), a Burgundy Aligoté from Fanny Sabre (€7.50), a red from the Latium by Paolo Bombetti (€35 a bottle)…

PRICE: Set menus at lunch €17-21-24, plates €7-14 (dinner).

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Grab a bottle to go from somewhere local

Le Fooding’s 2022 Guide is fresh out of the oven!

What’s on the menu this year? A brand-new selection of 200 restaurants, bars and bedrooms across France, articles sprinkled throughout the magazine, the taste of the times distilled down to its purest form in our highly anticipated award’s list and, for the very first time, two new guides to the country’s best stand-out shops and spirited cellars!

2021 Le Fooding guide frontcover
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