restaurant

Jeu de Quilles

Jeu de Quilles (Lyon)

© Adrien Simon

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With a nice restaurant in addition to the rest, this superb wine shop really bowls a strike! In a space with arched ceilings and stone walls, the Besson brothers (Guillaume in the kitchen and Grégoire with the bottle-opener) really nail it. At lunchtime, seated around the enormous communal table or at the cement tile bar, savor some authentic market cooking, like the day we went for lunch: perfectly roasted cod with bresaola, hazelnuts, garlic and parsley, served with crisp pan-fried haricots verts, porcini mushrooms and chanterelles; and a chocolate-obsessed dessert of lava cake, ganache, mousse and crumble. At night, the ambiance changes with tapas-style plates: Ardèche caillette rounds, an exquisite slice of coq en pâte (like a pâté en croûte with foie gras, pistachios, a port-infused stuffing and toasted hazelnuts), an insane cheese platter – aged Gouda, tomme du Jura, blue veined goat cheese, rove de Marseille… // G.V.

FEELING THIRSTY? There’s a large selection of bottles, which are nice even if they are mostly from conventional winemakers. Pop one open there or take to go: a Ventoux from the Domaine Château Campagne Bacchus 2015 (€4 a glass); L’Avallet du Rhône, a Côtes-du-Rhône from Hervé Avallet (€21 a bottle); Silice, a Saint-Joseph white from Pierre and Jérôme Coursodon (€34)…

PRICE: Mains €12-20, desserts €6.50 (lunch), plates €5-25 (dinner). 

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