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Early June

Early June (Paris)

© Early June

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Camille Machet and Victor Vautier (ex-SAaM) run this naturophile cave à manger just a few meters away from the legendary Verre Volé wine bar along the Canal Saint-Martin… In the stripped-bare walls of this former wig shop, the new chef Mathias Silberbauer – who’s been running things since September 2020 and has an impressive resume to his name (ex. – Pure & V, but also Relæ, Manfredset and BÆST in Copenhagen) – sent out some good and some very good dishes the night we went! A striking Basque country steak tartare with delicious late-season cherry tomatoes and tarragon; crisp fennel with an addictive smoked taramasalata for dipping; tender roasted peppers tucked into creamy stracciatella, pimped out with browned butter and sage; wonderful breaded monkfish katsu sando sandwich with tonkatsu and chopped cabbage; and a sublime pollack sashimi sprinkled with satsuma mandarin kosho (a Japanese condiment made from chili, salt and Japanese mandarins in this case), before a fig semifreddo. // G.LeP & G.V.

FEELING THIRSTY? Bottles galore! Served by the glass, there’s a red from La Ferme du Cade, Toujours Plus from 2019 (€6 a glass) or a white from Les Vignes du Maynes, a Macon Cruzille (€8 a glass); and by the bottle, a Valentin Valles red, Rollier 2018 (€35 a bottle) or even a Zillinger white, Numen Muskateller 2017 (€60 a bottle), unless you’d prefer an IPA Basqueland (€7 for 330 ml), selected from amongst a dozen craft beers.

PRICES: Plates between €6 and €18 and shared dishes between €30 and €40.

Do your shopping close by

Grab a bottle to go from somewhere local

Le Fooding’s 2022 Guide is fresh out of the oven!

What’s on the menu this year? A brand-new selection of 200 restaurants, bars and bedrooms across France, articles sprinkled throughout the magazine, the taste of the times distilled down to its purest form in our highly anticipated award’s list and, for the very first time, two new guides to the country’s best stand-out shops and spirited cellars!

2021 Le Fooding guide frontcover
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Le Fooding is a print and digital guide to all the restaurants, chefs, bars, stylish hotels and B&Bs that make up the “taste of the times,” plus an annual awards list for new establishments across France, a series of gastronomic events, a tool that allow you to make reservations at some fantastic bistros, and an agency specialized in event planning, content production and consulting… In short, something to keep you on your toes at all times!

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