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Daroco 16

Daroco 16 (Paris)

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Alexandre Giesbert, Julien Ross and Romain Glize have headed west, camping out their stylish ultrattoria (a Majorelle blue fresco by Supakitch, a marble cocktail bar, mirrored ceilings) inside the walls of what was formerly Zebra, across from the Maison de la Radio. The two accomplices used the same recipe that led to the success of their first opus on Rue Vivienne – straightforward antipasti, plump pizzas and pasta! For us, the day we went for lunch: fresh sardine fillets marinated with dill and paired with smoked ricotta and toasted pistachios; tasty pappardelle with beef ragù – or a less convincing linguine with lemony butter, served with a mini sea bream tartare; before an excellent fig panna cotta for dessert. Pizza lovers can indulge in a classic Margherita with fior di latte or a more playful Spada (smoked swordfish, zucchini, fresh basil and lime) – just two of the eight pizzas on the menu. One complaint? The staff, who still seem to be figuring things out… // G.LeP.

FEELING THIRSTY? There’s a to-the-point cocktail selection, including a smoky Damule (peaty Ardbeg whiskey, vodka infused with rooibos, honey and lime, €12), along with craft IPA from the Brasserie Toussaint on tap (€5 for a half-oint) and well-chosen wines, like an elegant natural red from Progetto Calcarius in Puglia (€9 a glass).

PRICE: Pizzas €11-18, pasta €13-22, risotto €16-24, desserts €8-12, set menu €19 (weekday lunch).

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