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Chez Remise

Chez Remise (Saint-Urcize)

© Chez Remise

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Every God-given day we’d perch up on the counter to read the Centre Presse newspaper or look through the superb collection of reels, spoons and artificial flies, before tossing a coin to the owner of this village café frozen in time that’s also a tobacconist, newsagents, hotel and restaurant. As the worthy heirs of a five-generation lineage, it’s now Lucille (in the dining room) and Jocelyn (in the kitchen) who carry on the family tradition. The night we went: a pleasant vegetable velouté served in a soup tureen with, just as ad-lib as ever, croutons, grated Gruyère cheese and a turmeric-spiced whipped cream; juicy pink veal loin with melted herb butter and aligot; before a quivering goat cheese faisselle with homemade seasonal fruit jam. For a little more verve, go towards the end of the week or for the Sunday feast, where you might come across mullet ceviche, veal sweetbreads in a cream sauce, slow-roasted goat shoulder or a pavlova with lemon cream and strawberries, amongst other delicious treats. // G.D.

FEELING THIRSTY? A Marcillac from the Domaine du Cros (€3.50 a glass), a Faugères La Liquière, a sulfite-free ZigZag Côtes-Auvergne from Desprat and a Sancerre white from Fouassier (€22, €20 and €30 a bottle).

PRICE: Set menus €17-22 (lunch), €15-19 (dinner) and €20-28 (Sunday). Rooms starting at €70 a night.

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Le Fooding’s 2022 Guide is fresh out of the oven!

What’s on the menu this year? A brand-new selection of 200 restaurants, bars and bedrooms across France, articles sprinkled throughout the magazine, the taste of the times distilled down to its purest form in our highly anticipated award’s list and, for the very first time, two new guides to the country’s best stand-out shops and spirited cellars!

2021 Le Fooding guide frontcover
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