Bagnard Saintonge

Bagnard Saintonge (Paris)

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Yoni Saada (who you may have seen on Top Chef France) is striking hard and fast at Bagnard (or “convict” in French), the second of its name after the location in Saint Augustin. Putting a sublime twist on Mediterranean-inspired street food, the stars of the show are the sandwiches with names that appear to have been borrowed from an Audiard film (Jo La Dèche, François la Niçoise, etc.). The day we went for lunch, this spiffy space (velvet and cane seating, golden brass touches, a solid wood bar) was filled with freshly made treats: a stunning tuna tartare with plenty of olives, hazelnuts and radishes; an enormous burrata from Puglia covered in generous slices of bottarga and grilled corn; artichokes with a bit of bite, seasoned with za’atar and herbs; an inevitable Lulu Le Bagnard sandwich with Ortiz tuna, egg, spring onion, olives, tomatoes and anchovies, between two slices of semi-wholegrain buns made by Emile&Jules and drizzled in plenty of olive oil. At night, the recipes get a little cheekier and the shared portions get bigger. // T.V.X.

FEELING THIRSTY? There’s a thirst-quenching lemonade (€4 a glass, €10 a pitcher – designed by Paola Navone for Serax) and some joyful southern bottles: a Minervois from the Château du Donjon (€6 a glass), Nana rosé from the Château de Bastidière (€38 a bottle), Chatus 2015 from Le Mas de Bagnols (€36).

PRICE: Tapas €6-14, appetizers €7-15, mains €16-26, pan bagnat sandwiches €16 (€10.50 to go), desserts €6-9. 

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