Once upon a time, 20 numbers higher up the same street, Délices du Shandong delighted all those nostalgic for the old country, traveling ex-pats and other lovers of authentic northeastern Chinese cuisine. But success meant that chef Xue Chaoqing had to move to a bigger space. The result? A big dining room with XXL round tables made for attacking tasty plump jiaozi (a dumpling specialty from Shandong) stuffed with beef and celery; a very slurpable Beijing soup with pepper, spice, black mushrooms, tofu and pork; before brilliant strips of lacquered pork with a slightly sweet sauce, wrapped up in very thin rice paper with fresh julienned cucumber. For the more daring amongst you, the menu also lets you adventure into culinary lands that are hard to find in Paris: tripe and chili salad, duck tongues, jellyfish with garlic… // M.Z.
FEELING THIRSTY? Tsingtao beer (€3.50 for 330 ml) or erguotou, a sorghum liquor (€28 for 500 ml).
PRICE: Dumplings €7 for a dozen, à la carte €15.50 to €55.