restaurant

Abri Soba

Abri Soba (Paris)

© Matthieu Jauniau-Dallier

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Journey to the End of the Noodle! But not just any noodle: the soba noodle, a divine string of buckwheat dough, displayed in all its natural glory at this wood-clad Japanese spot with industrial furniture. The other day at lunch, from amongst the 16 options dreamt up by Katsuaki Okiyama (the fabulous chef behind the tiny Abri fine dining restaurant), we dug into marvelous hot soba noodles in a crystalline broth with duck and leeks; then cold soba with soy sauce, veiled by grated radish – which really took things to the next level! It was all accompanied by rice, vegetable dumplings or a small bean salad, for just a few extra kopecks. At night, the menu unveils other izakaya-esque delights, delivered to your table by the doting staff: karaage, breaded korokke croquettes, potesala potato salad, buckwheat crème brûlée… In short, it’s so(ba) amazing, baby! // A.A.

FEELING THIRSTY? Natural wines (a Touraine white from Thierry Puzelat at €6 a glass, a Chiroubles from Christophe Pacalet at €32 a bottle…) and a list of sakes that’ll have you feeling like you’re on the Shinkansen bullet train, zipping between the prefectures of Hyogo, Niigata, Saga, etc. (glasses €8-10, 720 ml bottles starting at €45).

PRICE: Soba €9-17, plates €4-14, desserts €6.

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