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Neso 2

Neso 2 (Paris)

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Across from Guillaume Sanchez’s original Neso, Neso 2 offers up curious tapas and experimental glasses to food geeks. On the menu, you won’t find any of the classics, but six creative combos (€15) invented by Virgil (ex-Bisou), Etienne (ex-Manko) and Quentin (ex-Majestic in Cannes). In a space with a black resin block bar, gigantic blonde wood sculptures, whitewashed stones and high ceilings, the house serves astonishing liquid amuse-bouches (the night we went, a fizzing infusion of seaweed and pickled olives), before getting down to business. For us, served in an Erlenmeyer flask, a Sour (raspberry eau-de-vie, saffrony absinthe, rhubarb, oyster jus, pineau vinegar) combining the sweetness of raspberries with the tanginess of rhubarb. As for the tapas, they’re almost as lively as the drinks, with, most notably, smoked yellow pollack with wild garlic (€8), lobster ravioli (€8) or turbot bottarga (€7). Mocktails upon request. // A.B.

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